I am changing all the light bulbs in the house and it uses 2 of 60w edison screw globe in each light fitting. I am think of getting LED as it last longer? Do I get edison screw LED bulb that says 'equivalent to 60w output' as LED bulbs doesn't go up to 60w since LED is supposed to be brighter at a lower wattage? Something like that https://www.masters.com.au/product/101264128/philips-led-light-globe-9-5w-60w-warm-white and https://www.masters.com.au/product/101264144/philips-led-light-globe-9w-60w-cool-daylight-white ???

What is the difference between warm white and cool white as the above examples? Warm white is rated at 9.5w while cool white is at 9w...is warm white brighter since its 0.5w more but thn the lumens are the same at 806 lumens. I want light that is white for reading/computing/studying etc. instead of yellowish hue which isn't conducive to these activities.

Alternatively do you reckon I should just stick to the normal tungsten filament/halogen bulb if LED although last longer but would not be as bright?

cheers. So warm white would be the slightly yellowish type that I don't want?

EDIT: I found this comparison I will get the cool white.

Haven't been to excited about the LED lights tried so far. Found the only units to be reasonable are the Panasonic.
Bought 4 LED light fittings from different suppliers for the new house and returned all 4. The LED fittings were nowhere near satisfactory compared to circular fluorescent tubes. Wattage was similar so no significant saving in power. With the electronic ballasts and no flickering fluorescent lights still have a lot of life left.

Did you mean its not similarly bright compared to its CF equivalent?

What do you mean similar wattage? I can't find any LED that has the same wattage as a 60w CF bulb for example as LED are all much lower but listed with equivalent to xx watts based on lumens.

Another question I have is if I can get LED that is equivalent to a much higher wattage since the LED watts are much less than the actual max watts of CF bulbs currently in use? For example: Max 60w non LED bulbs capacity but I am thinking of using LED equivalent of 75w rather than 60w (in case its not bright enough) which is only about 13 to 14w actual usage for the LED as 60w equivalent is about 9w LED?

CFL = Compact fluorescent, but Lineland is talking about CIRCULAR fluorescent, which a far more efficient and generally better kind of fluorescent lamp.

It's simple. 12 is similar to 13 but it is not similar to 789,658.

So, what Lineland said was that LED of similar wattage to the existing Circular Fluorescent is not an improvement in lighting.

Yes, you can. The issues are that LED Lamps MUST STAY COOL. And the kind of retrofit lamps that you are considering ARE NOT designed for use in enclosed fixtures. So, despite a reduction in wattage, the LEDs will overheat and fade and/or die prematurely.

Furthermore, if you have oyster lights that use 2 x 60W GLS lamps in them, then LED retrofits will shoot light out 2 sides, rather than illuminating the oyster light evenly. Almost all LED is directional, whilst incandescent lamps are not.

To be frank, it'd be better to change the fixture to a proper LED unit than retrofit an old oyster like that.

That webpage is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING like what the various colours of light actually look like.

Your eye's personal "white balance" is based on the prevalent light source and the colours in the space. If the rest of your home is lit with incandescent, then even 4000K fluoro or LED lamps will look decidedly "blue". So, you need to make sure there is no massive contrasts, or it will look crap.

Also be aware that incandescent lamps have virtually no blue in them, whilst LEDs have absolutely heaps of blue. So even if the rated colour temperature is 3000K, if there is blue objects or blue tones of paint in the room then the overall appearance will be massively more "blue" than it was originally.

Generally, warmer tones create a relaxed, inviting atmosphere, whilst cool colours create a harsh, cold environment. In terms of the "feeling" that they create, warm tones of light suggest "expensive" and "classy" whilst more blue tones suggest "cheap and cheerful". If you take a walk around any large shopping centre you will soon notice that the cheap outlets (Best and Less, Lowes, supermarkets, fast food places) are always lit brightly with blue-toned lights, whilst more expensive "fine" products (and restaurants) are usually lit to far lower levels using warmer tones.

I have no idea why anybody would want the rooms in their home to be lit up like a supermarket, cheap fast food place or commercial office space. Most offices are lit to 4000K (neutral white), and never using the harsh blue that comes from cheap LEDs.
Blue light = cheap. And, no... you cannot "see better" in blue light.

I have to disagree with you there the3oopers.
I have two LED globes (7w I think) in a ceiling fan oyster light and they have been constantly used for about 3 years so far.
The light does have a small gap around the rim of the glass and some vents on the back plate to allow cooling, but they have way outlasted the CFLs I had in there. They are also not directional at all.

The reason for the 0.5W difference in power, but an identical 806 Lumens of light output is because cool white LED globes are more efficient. The LEDs used in these lights are pure blue (sometimes called Royal Blue). To get all the other colours they use phosphor (like yttrium aluminum garnet) to convert the blue light into green, yellow, etc... The more blue light that needs converting, to make warm white, the greater the loss of efficacy.

the old advice was – better/cheaper to use one 100W bulb than 2 x 50W bulbs – more light for the same input – if your fittings take 2 bulbs each I'm wondering if they are Small Edison Screw(SES) bulbs ?

I recently tossed out my laundry ceiling oyster light and put in a new oyster with the larger screw E27 fitting – looked around a bit and found KMart had but was out of stock 60W LED E27 – I got some from Aldi – maybe $6 each for 60W equivalent.

and for the circular fluoro lover – we have one in our lounge room – 22W or something – takes seconds to light up – not impressive – and a new bulb is like $12 – no thanks – I actually like the instant-on brightness of the new LEDs – 2 years ago they were the future – now they're here – works for me !

I did more reading and also from the advice in this thread has steered me more towards CFL. I had a look around and Philips genie CFL series seem to be good. It doesn't seem readily available but I found a local seller on ebay selling for around $8 for a 2 pack for 18w = 100w equivalent.

The reasons I am more inclined to CFL currently are;

• My Oyster ceiling light fittings would risk inadequate cooling for the LED.
• The 2 light globe in each oyster fitting are positioned top to top parallel to the ceiling ( =O O= )rather than top pointing towards the floor. Since LED are directional towards the top of the globe/tube it wouldn't be idea as a lighting source since it will be giving off light to the side rather than towards the bottom I reckon.
• People have expressed unsatisfactory feedback at the brightness of LED compared to CFL.
• CFL seem to be a better light source with its light distribution.
• The only advantage of LED I can see so far is the lower cost of having to replace due to longer life (although much higher cost of LED vs CFL) and lower power usage and the no delay instant full brightness when switched on. However CFL although a little higher in power usage than LED is still lower compared to older light globe.

I just want to have a good result first time so I don't think risking the high initial purchase cost LED is a sure bet.

What do you reckon?

I haven't actually opened the oyster fittings to have a look at the bulbs yet as I need to get a ladder first LOL. According to the electrical specs that came with the place it listed 2 x 60w Edison Screw globe in each fitting.

I've never been impressed by those circular fluros – they are so dim. My uncle has a strip single fluro in the kitchen and circular fluro in the dining room and the dining room is about half as light.

I should recommend he swap it out for some LEDs...

Really? I think they are fantastic, I will never go back to CFL...I hate that long warm up time.

The other thing is LED are brighter than CFL watt for watt...so if you think you might suffer some loss, just buy a 12.5w LED 1055 lumens, if you came from an 806 lumen CFL, there's no way the CFL will be brighter, but still using less power.

I think the Osrams are less directional than other brands, go into Bunnings and look at the display cabinet where they have a few set up.

If you can pick up a few LEDs and they aren't satisfactory in the oyster lights, can't you just put them in say a bedroom or toilet fitting?

I agree – if you want oysters, something like this is good – I have the 15W model and I am happy, but there is also a 20W model:
http://www.mercator.com.au/products/2469
The light is very even and flicker free. It's certainly not cheaper (or even comparable cost) to installing new bulbs but it was a better solution for my needs. Maybe it will be for you too.

You can see a few of these set up in Bunnings so you can check them out and see what they look like switched on.

Totally agree . The whole LED phenomena seems like a lot of hype for little real advantage from what I've seen .
I actually really like the colour temp of all the flouros we have and the newer t5 lamps are not a lot less efficient with much less up front cost . The problem I've had with the circular flouro's attached to our ceiling fans has been the woeful reliability of the electronic ballasts . On the other hand old magnetic ballasts have an annoying hum . I retrofitted a quality electronic ballast to one of our old flour's a couple of years ago and thats been fine .
I think you have to be very carefull when buying LED's because the cheaper ones have a very clinical blue tinge that I personally find uncomfortable . I've seen lower temperature LED's that are much warmer but you still have the problem of lack of diffusion .

I disagree – I tried a CFL in my new screw oyster – dim at first, it took ages to warm up to brightness – I chucked it for an instant-on LED – the new LEDs seem to me somehow brighter than the equivalent CFLs – and new swap-in LED bulbs can be round like old style incandescent so give the same spread of light – I've got a bunch of CFLs I've no intention of using now I've seen the light – from LEDs.

in our complex I think we ordered a bunch of LED oysters for stairwells – all one piece – maybe 10W complete with aluminium backing integrated heatsink for ideal cooling – much brighter than the 11W CFLs they replaced – cost maybe $30 each – but that might be wholesale supplier prices – if you're gonna pay an electrician I'd be asking them about such a supply.

some examples – Philips – http://www.simply-leds.com.au/light-fittings.html – 17W LED oysters 'as low as $49' – click on links for more information about each type